![]() ![]() Īnyway, as far as I understand, it's called spherical aberration, but I might be off. I happen to like it in the background blur sometimes, and like these older lenses I have for "defects" such as these - they add a bit of flavour rather than the clinical edge-to-edge sharpness (though it makes the lenses a bit less predictable too - not always an advantage). ![]() Both lenses are not corrected all too well wide open, which under conditions can lead to this different, slightly nervous OoF rendering. I'm not optics expert (there are some around, I hope they chime in), but I sometimes do see a similar effect with my Nikon 50mm f/1.2, and to a lesser extend 35 f/1.4 (old manual focus lens - not the current model). Given that both your bodies are full-frame, it is hard to explain why on one body it would show, and on the other not. ![]() And another discussion here.Īwful or not is a matter of personal preference, but in the foreground, it is quite distracting in the background a lot less so to me. There may be a Lensbaby doodad designed with a smaller image circle to emulate that effect on smaller sensor digital cameras.Īlso, other owners of the Canon 50/1.2 have observed the same effect. But the effect is often minimal unless used on a large format camera. Some photographers still like the effect and have adapted Petzvals to their cameras. It was considered a desirable effect in that era. The effect is similar, but not identical, to the older lenses like the Petzval, which tended to emphasize the swirls at or near infinity, rather than at close range as you're seeing with your lenses. The lenses were designed for a larger format where the effect would show at the periphery. Same problem I have with my special effect and soft focus lenses on cropped sensor digital cameras. If you haven't seen it before on your 6D: you may not have been close enough to the ground or didn't include enough out-of-focus foreground in the photo or weren't shooting wide open.Īnd if you didn't see it with APS sensor cameras it's because most of the effect is cropped out. Shoot exactly the same scenes with any Canon full frame dSLR (or 35mm film SLR) and you'll see the same effect. There are loads of adapters out there to help you adapt old lenses to newer cameras, and this should give you a great deal of freedom with how you use your vintage lenses.It's not uncommon, especially with fast lenses wide open. Remember, however, that since with vintage lenses you’re pretty much guaranteed to be using manual focus, you have much more freedom with mount adapting. These lenses are available for various mounts, and we’ve tried to include a broad range of mount options. This guide is designed to give you a starting point to work from. So if you see an interesting-looking vintage lens available for a good price, go ahead and take the plunge. You’re searching for something that’ll give your images a distinct character, rather than the ultimate in sharpness. Think of it like our guide to the best retro cameras (opens in new tab), where we’ve picked out the best digital cameras with a vintage design.īut the main thing you should remember is that with vintage lenses, you aren’t looking for perfection. This is in order to try and give you as many options as we can that are actually possible to find, afford and use. ![]() We’ve included a mix of genuine vintage lenses and newer lenses that are designed to provide an avowedly retro experience. Best darkroom equipment (opens in new tab). ![]()
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